Archive for December, 2011

Cooking Up Some Luck for 2012

Friday, December 30th, 2011

Hoppin’ John, a rich dish made with black-eyed peas simmered with ham hocks and onions and served over rice, was a New Year’s favorite at my house growing up.  We didn’t live in the South, where the dish originated, but somehow Hoppin’ John found its way into our suburban midwestern kitchen every January, and we downed every last savory spoonful.  My mom said it would bring us good luck in the coming year, which added a certain mystique to this humble dish. She’d quote the old southern saying about eating Hoppin’ John on New Year’s Day: “Eat poor that day, eat rich the rest of the year.  Rice for riches and peas for peace.”  I don’t know if Hoppin’ John ever really brought us good luck, but we sure enjoyed eating it.

In many cultures there are New Year’s traditions that involve eating special foods for luck, usually because they symbolize or suggest prosperity or health.  Here are a few suggestions in case you’d like to shore up your luck in 2012:

Legumes such as lentils and beans are considered a talisman of prosperity because they resemble coins (and they increase in size when they’re cooked).  Try out Our Hoppin’ John or Quick Hoppin’ John, or consider some other great savory bean dishes like Black Bean Soup, Pasta Fagioli with Spinach, or Red Beans and Rice.

Greens like spinach, kale, and cabbage are said to resemble and symbolize money.  Hoppin’ John is often served with braised collard greens for extra luck (we like ours braised with a smoked turkey drumstick).   Kale with Caramelized Shallots may bring you luck, as may Quick White Bean Stew with Swiss Chard and Tomatoes (you’ve got beans and greens in this one!).

Pork is considered a symbol of prosperity (“the fat of the land”) in many countries.  In folklore, the pig is said to suggest progress because it roots forward when searching for food.   Many Americans of German descent love their pork braised with sauerkraut (another combination of two lucky foods, pork and cabbage).  We enjoy the French version of this dish, Choucroute Garnie, anytime–New Year’s included–and what could be more festive for a New Year’s feast than Pork with Cherry and Port Wine Sauce or Pork Cutlets and Apples with an Apple-Balsamic Sauce?

Fish has long been eaten at New Year’s in many cultures because it could be easily preserved, but fish is also considered a symbol of abundance and wealth for various reasons–because fish swim in schools, have silver skin, and may have scales that resemble coins.  Swedes enjoy a smorgasbord of seafood to celebrate New Year’s, and in Chinese celebrations fish are served intact, with both head and tail, to symbolize a good start and finish to the new year.  Consider making Mediterranean Fish Soup the center of your New Year’s feast–or  celebrate with Salmon Filets Poached in Tomato and Olive Sauce, or Scallop, Shrimp, and Cod Pot Pie.

However you ring in–or cook in–the new year,  we wish you abundance, health, and the best of luck in 2012.

Labors of Love

Thursday, December 15th, 2011

Back in the early 80’s I took a cooking class in a fancy department store from a lovely woman named Barbara Zagnoni.  The centerpiece of the class was a Beef Wellington that took 3 days to prepare.  (Looking back, I’m terrifically impressed that Barbara was able to teach me in less than 3 hours how to make a dish that took 3 days.)  It was utterly delicious: velvety roast beef tenderloin with a Madeira mushroom and ham filling enrobed in buttery puff pastry and served with an intriguingly complex sauce made from myriad ingredients.

I came away from that class with a new vision of what might be possible in my home kitchen and decided to make this dish for my family for Christmas dinner.  Mind you, this was a long time ago, before cooking professionally had ever entered my mind.  I wasn’t even very good at frying an egg.   But Barbara had made this look like something I could actually do, and I was determined to try.

On December 23, I began, carefully following all of Barbara’s instructions, reveling in the scents and textures of the various ingredients in the two-page (single-spaced) recipe.  I proceeded with the project on December 24 and Christmas day, studiously dicing, simmering, rolling out pastry, and seasoning, and by the time for Christmas dinner, I had created a splendid Beef Wellington, not as good as Barbara’s but very close.  And I’d had a very good time doing it all.  My family consumed the thing with looks of rapture on their faces.

“Labor of love” is such a cliché, but that Beef Wellington was a labor of love: love for my family, of course, but also for the ingredients I was working with, for the fun and creativity of cooking as a pursuit and not an obligation, and for the end result, an absolutely delicious meal.  Making Beef Wellington was one of the best gifts I’ve ever given my family or myself.

As the holidays approach, if you’re considering taking some of your time off and spending it in the kitchen with a splendid cooking project, I’d like to cheer you on.  The cooks at MTG have a few ideas for you, recipes from our collection that have been labors of love for us and that you might enjoy making, too.

There’s Pork Cassoulet, a time-honored rustic—and decadent—French dish in which a hearty bean stew and a pork stew are combined with sausages and baked under a bread-crumb crust moistened with duck fat.  Or you might try your hand at a rich, creamy Lobster Bisque studded with chunks of succulent lobster meat.  Or perhaps a Rosemary and Garlic Rubbed Pork Loin with Apple and Pecan Stuffing, butterflied pork topped with a savory-sweet stuffing and rolled up to create a gorgeous spiral effect.  You could travel (in your kitchen) to Spain to make Seafood and Chorizo Paella, to Italy for Veal Osso Buco and Risotto Milanese, or to Germany for an authentic Sauerbraten.

Whatever dish (or dishes) you decide to make during the holidays this year, whether it’s a tried-and-true favorite or an intriguing new culinary project, I wish you true enjoyment in the cooking and the eating of your masterpiece.

 

Bring Out the Roast

Friday, December 9th, 2011

Something about the holidays sends dedicated carnivores out in search of the perfect roast.  Perhaps it’s the primal appeal of a warm, juicy, fragrant chunk of meat on a cold winter’s eve, or the practical fact that roasts are ideal for feeding a crowd, or an urge to splurge on a luxurious dinner during this season of celebration.  Whatever it is, roasts are often the main dish of choice for our winter holiday meals.

Roasting is a simple dry-heat cooking method—food is cooked in an oven in an uncovered pan, producing a well-browned exterior and a moist and tender interior.  Chicken and turkey roast beautifully, but when I think of “A Roast,” I think of beef, pork, veal, or lamb, especially in winter.  The best cuts of meat to roast are large, tender ones, such as beef tenderloin, prime rib, beef sirloin or rump roast, pork loin, rack of veal, veal loin, rack of lamb, and leg of lamb.

Meat can be roasted at any temperature between 250 degrees and 500 degrees, but the best way to roast most cuts of meat is to first sear them, either in a skillet or in very hot oven (450 to 500 degrees), and then roast them at a moderate temperature (300 to 350 degrees).  Contrary to myth, searing does not “seal in the juices,” but instead develops a savory browned crust that enriches the flavor of the meat.

You can insure moist and tender meat by cooking the roast to 5 to 10 degrees below the ideal temperature* and letting it rest before slicing for a short time (5 to 20 minutes—the larger the roast the longer it should rest). During this time the residual heat in the roast will cause it to continue cooking to reach the ideal temperature, and allow the juices in the meat to be reabsorbed.

To add flavor to roasts, try dusting the meat with your favorite spice rub before cooking.  Alternatively, you can coat the outside of the meat with a blend of chopped garlic and herbs moistened with olive oil, or your favorite mustard blended with some minced shallot or onion.  Another tried and true method is to cut small pockets all over the roast and insert slices of garlic in them—the garlic will disintegrate when the roast is carved, but will leave behind its flavor in the meat.

To make a tasty pan gravy for a roast, spoon off all but a couple of tablespoons of fat from the roasting pan (leave the juices), and whisk in flour a tablespoon at a time, with the pan over medium heat, to make a thin paste.  Continue cooking and whisking until the paste browns, then whisk in a cup or so of hot stock and cook, still whisking, until the gravy thickens and comes to a boil. Season it with salt and pepper and maybe a dash of allspice and cayenne.

Roasts are also delicious served with a variety of other more complex sauces like our elegant Madeira and Stilton Sauce—or Dried Cherry Cognac Glace, Sauce Merlot, Wild Mushroom Sauce, or Black Grape and Balsamic Sauce. Some of our favorite holiday roasts are Garlic- and Mustard-Crusted Standing Rib Roast Au Jus, Herb-Crusted Leg of Lamb with Red Wine Sauce, Roast Pork Loin with Fennel and White Wine Pan Sauce, and The Sauce Guys’ Simple Roast Veal Tenderloin.  Whatever roast you have this season, we wish you joy in every savory, tender, juicy bite.

*Doneness Temperatures for Beef, Lamb, Veal, and Pork Roasts

Remove from heat Ideal temperature (after resting)
Very Rare 110-115°F 115-125°F
Rare 115-120°F 125-130°F
Medium-Rare 125-130°F 130-140°F
Medium 130-140°F 140-150°F
Medium-Well 145-155°F 150-165°F
Well Done 165°F+ 170-185°F

Measure temperature with an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the roast (away from the bone if it’s a bone-in roast).