Archive for April, 2012

Cooking Up Some Mushrooms

Thursday, April 26th, 2012

Spring is wild mushroom season in many parts of the country.  It’s the time when mushroom hunters spirit away to their secret spots and come back, if they’re lucky, with a mother lode of these earthy delicacies.  The wild mushroom’s cousins, cultivated mushrooms, are available all year, but they seem new again this time of year, adding a savory note to the fresh flavors of spring.

Whether you hunt mushrooms in the wild or in the produce aisle, one of the best ways to enjoy them is simply sautéed.  Choose a skillet just large enough to hold the mushrooms in a single layer.  Heat the skillet over medium-high to high heat.  When it’s hot, add equal parts oil and butter to the pan.  Once the butter has just started to brown, add the mushrooms and cook, stirring constantly until they’re browned, usually about 2-3 minutes.  I like to sauté them until they’re even a little crisp around the edges.  The complex, intense flavor of the caramelized mushrooms is delicious.  All they need is a sprinkle of salt and pepper, and maybe some chopped fresh herbs like parsley, sage, or chives.   Sautéed mushrooms are great with pasta and rice, over nearly anything from the grill, as an addition to salads or sautéed greens, or in omelets.

Mushrooms also show up in the hearty soups, stews, and braises of fall and winter, but in the spring I especially like them in the light, brothy soups that come from Asian cuisines:  Miso Soup, Asian Vegetable Noodle Soup, Hot and Sour Soup with Shrimp, and Egg Drop Soup.  Mushrooms round out the delicate flavors of spring braises, too, in our Braised Salmon with Asparagus and Mushrooms  and Braised Spring Vegetables.

In some of my favorite spring dishes, mushrooms move from a supporting role to center stage.  Wild Mushroom Risotto has layers of tasty mushroom flavor from fresh wild mushrooms and MTG’s Mushroom Essence. Morel Sauce is a decadent combination of fresh (or dried) morels, our White Wine Sauce, and silky cream—it’s terrific over fat spears of roasted asparagus.  When I’m in the mood for something really rich and indulgent, there’s Penne with Morels, pasta tossed with a morel cream sauce accented with our Mushroom Essence, bacon, shallots, and sherry.

Perhaps the best way to enjoy spring mushrooms, wild or cultivated, is with this simple pasta dish:

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.  In a skillet, sauté some fresh mushrooms until they’re browned and almost crisp.  Remove the mushrooms from the pan and set them aside.  Add 4 cups of our diluted Mushroom Essence to the skillet and bring it to a low simmer over low heat, stirring to scrape up the browned bits.  Leave the mushroom stock at a simmer and cook some simple cheese ravioli in the boiling water.  When the pasta is almost done, use a slotted spoon to transfer it to the simmering mushroom stock.  Cook it for a few minutes in the stock, then transfer it to warmed shallow bowls. Ladle some of the mushroom stock over the ravioli and top it with the sautéed mushrooms, a generous grind of pepper, some grated Parmesan, and chopped fresh mint or chives.

It’s spring in a bowl—and the perfect use for your mother lode, whether from the forest or the grocery store.

Liquid Gold

Thursday, April 19th, 2012

According to one culinary trendspotter, “Duck fat is this year’s bacon.”  We’re glad to know that our MTG Graisse de Canard Gold rendered duck fat is at the forefront of the newest trends in food, but, truth be told, duck fat has long been a staple of French cooking.  For duck confit, one of the most revered classic French dishes, duck is salted, slowly cooked in duck fat until it is fall-apart tender, then packed into a crock and sealed with more duck fat to preserve it.  Duck fat is also a key ingredient in cassoulet, a traditional, hearty, rustic French stew made with beans and meat or game.

Today’s cooks love duck fat for some of the same reasons yesterday’s cooks did: its high flash point, its silky, rich mouth feel, and the deep, savory flavor it imparts to food.  Today’s cooks also love duck fat because it’s a minimally processed, single ingredient food, and it contains 66% unsaturated fat and significantly less saturated fat than butter and other animal fats, making duck fat a healthier choice.

Duck fat is wonderful for making French fries, roasting potatoes, and sautéing vegetables and greens. Brown some wild mushrooms in duck fat with garlic, or braise red cabbage with onions in duck fat and red wine.  Rub duck fat on the outside of a chicken or duck before roasting to achieve a rich, golden brown finish. Substitute duck fat for part of the butter in mashed potatoes to add an entirely new dimension to the dish.  At MTG, we use duck fat to make croutons, and to make a favorite snack we discovered in Italy: lightly battered fresh sage leaves fried in duck fat.

The chef at the 21 Club in New York City makes his famous burgers with premium ground beef blended with seasonings and a couple of tablespoons of duck fat.  At Lush Wine Bar in Chicago, they pop their bar popcorn in duck fat.  There’s even a popular restaurant in Portland, Maine called Duck Fat, where the signature dish is classic Belgian fries made with local potatoes fried in (guess what!) duck fat and served with your choice of several gourmet dipping sauces.  On their dessert menu are Duck Fat Beignets, duck-fat-fried doughnut holes topped with powdered sugar, cinnamon sugar, or chocolate sauce.

And, speaking of dessert, duck fat also makes a very tasty pastry when substituted for some of the butter or shortening in the recipe, great for pecan pie.  No wonder duck fat’s star is on the rise again.  It’s incredibly versatile, with uses in myriad dishes from fries to pie.  It’s relatively healthy.  And it’s absolutely delicious.  As food writer Garrett McCord said, “Duck fat is the real liquid gold . . . [it] simply makes food sing.”

Soups for Spring

Thursday, April 12th, 2012

From sunny days and warm breezes to snow blowing down from grim clouds on a chilly wind, spring weather is often all over the map.  On those suddenly cold and gray days of spring, soup seems like the perfect comfort food.  Spring also brings a fresh crop of sweet, crisp vegetables perfect for soups: asparagus, peas, carrots, spinach, artichokes, spring onions, and wild mushrooms.

Simple soups made with spring vegetables don’t need much dressing up, just enough to enhance the vegetables’ delicate flavors without overwhelming them–maybe some fresh herbs, a little ginger, or a squeeze of lemon juice.  A few of our favorite spring vegetable soups at MTG are Pea Soup with Mint, Velvet Carrot and Ginger Soup, and simple Asparagus Soup.  We also love Lemon Asparagus Barley Soup, a version of Greek avgolemono soup with crisp asparagus and chewy barley.

Tender noodles are an ideal companion for spring vegetables in soups.  Float some cooked pasta in a flavorful broth and add a handful of fresh veggies, and you have a terrific soup.  We like Spinach Tortellini Soup for a quick meal, as well as Chef Mick’s Old-Fashioned Chicken Noodle Soup and hearty Mushroom and Orzo Soup.

The lively, diverse flavors of Asian cuisine are a natural in spring soups, too.  Try our Thai Chicken Soup with Rice, scented with lemon grass, ginger, and cilantro, or our Pan-Pacific Noodle Soup with chilies, lime, and scallions.  Pork Won Ton Soup, Asian Vegetable Noodle Soup, and Spicy Shrimp with Rice Noodles are other light, delicious soups filled with great Asian flavors.

Not matter what approach you take to making it, there’s no better way to celebrate–and weather–the ups and downs of spring than a steaming bowl of fragrant soup studded with bright spring veggies.

 

Sauces for Your Easter Table

Thursday, April 5th, 2012

At MTG, one of our favorite sayings is “It’s all about the sauce.”  More often than not, all you need is a good sauce to take a meal from ordinary to festive.  For a holiday meal like Easter, when we may be juggling the many aspects of putting together a holiday feast for family and friends, sauce is our not-so-secret strategy for adding flavor, texture, and just the right touch to a basic meat-and-potatoes (or fish-and-potatoes) meal.

Easter is also a time to enjoy the fresh, bright flavors of spring or indulge a bit to celebrate.  Lamb is one of our favorite centerpieces for an Easter feast, as is a succulent ham.  When we want to go with something a little lighter, salmon is a great choice.  Here are a few terrific sauce recipes from our kitchens for all three:

For Lamb: Whether you choose to use the herb crust or not, the basic red wine pan sauce from our Herb-Crusted Leg of Lamb is a beautiful complement to lamb, as is our simple Mustard Sauce.

For Ham: The flavors in these pan sauces marry well with savory baked ham–Fresh Citrus Pan Sauce, Maple Mustard Pan Sauce, Normandy Style Pan Sauce.

For Lamb and Ham: Sauces with a little sweetness, or a sweet-and-sour flavor often work nicely with both lamb and ham.  Here are a few we like: Black Grape and Balsamic Sauce, Madeira Sauce, and Quick Port Wine Sauce.

For Salmon: Because salmon is so versatile,  you can go with lighter fresh or tangy flavors in Pea Sauce with Chives, Quick Spinach Velouté, Mustard and White Wine Sauce, or Quick Ravigote Sauce–or you can go with a richer or heartier sauce like our Mushroom Ragout or Tarragon Cream Sauce.

For other great sauce ideas, take a look at our sauce recipe collection and find  just the right sauce for your Easter table.