Archive for July, 2012

Cooking with Chiles

Friday, July 20th, 2012

From fiery Scotch bonnets to mild, crisp Anaheims, chile peppers of all shapes, sizes, colors, and degrees of heat are appearing now at farmers’ markets, and a growing selection of them is available year round at grocery stores and specialty markets. Chiles are actually fruits of plants in the capsicum family, and there are more than 200 varieties ranging in size from ¼ inch to 12 inches in length. They add a unique pungent flavor to cuisines in countries around the world including South America, Thailand, India, China, Spain, Africa, and Mexico, where more than 100 chile varieties originated.  Chiles can be yellow, green, orange, red, purple, black, and a few colors in between, and they range in heat from very mild to mouth-scorching hot.

The heat of chiles comes from capsaicin, a compound contained primarily in the seeds and membranes of chiles.  In general, the smaller the chile the hotter it is because smaller chiles contain proportionally more seeds and membranes than larger ones.  Capsaicin doesn’t lose its heat when it is frozen or heated, so the only way to decrease a chile’s heat is to remove the seeds and the membranes.  It’s a good idea to wash your hands thoroughly after working with chiles (or wear rubber gloves) so you don’t transfer irritating compounds to your skin, eyes, etc.

When you’re shopping for chiles at the market, look for brightly colored ones without shriveled skin or soft spots.  They can be stored in a plastic bag in the vegetable drawer of your refrigerator for up to 10 days if they’re nice and fresh when you buy them.  If you want to try cooking with some new and different chiles, take a look at the produce section in your local Mexican or Asian market, or check in with a grower at the farmers’ market and ask about chiles you may not be familiar with.

Chiles are also available dried or canned.  Drying subtly alters the flavor of chiles, and in some cases, the dried version has different name, such as the poblano chile, which is referred to as an ancho chile when dried. Mild, flavorful canned green chilies are available in most grocery stores and now come in “fire-roasted” varieties, as well.  They can be used for a quick, no-hassle hit of chile flavor and can stand in for 3-4 fresh mild chiles.  Smoked jalapeno chiles, known as chipotles, are usually available canned in adobo sauce.

What to cook with chiles?  Here are a few of our favorite chile-flavored dishes:

Sauces: Ancho Chile Sauce, Chinese Brown Sauce, Green Chile Sauce, Mole Sauce, Poblano Chile Sauce.

Soups and Stews: Texas Three-Pepper and Beef Chili, Chicken and White Bean Chili with Green Chiles, Chef Mick’s Centennial Green Chile Stew.

Sides: Tex-Mex Cornbread Pudding, Mexican Black Beans with Chiles.

Entrees: Thai Scallops and Spinach over Rice; Spicy Beef and Bean Burritos, Steamed Mussels with Chile and Lemongrass.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rubs: Your Secret Weapon at the Grill

Friday, July 6th, 2012

The best thing to come off my grill so far this summer has been juicy, chili-rubbed strip steaks with a smoky chili sauce made by stirring a little of the chili rub for the steaks into MTG Red Wine Sauce.  Very simple and absolutely delicious, it earned raves from my family and is on my short list for the next time we have friends to dinner.

The secret to the success of that dish was the rub. Blissfully uncomplicated to prepare, a rub can be as straightforward as one ground spice, or it can be a more complex combination of spices, herbs, and other ingredients like brown sugar or ground coffee. Using a rub is one of the easiest ways to add great flavor to grilled meats, poultry, seafood, and veggies.  Just stir together your rub ingredients and, before cooking, sprinkle the rub on the food and pat it gently so it adheres.  Your reward: layers of surprisingly complex flavor with almost no fuss.

Rubs are usually applied 15-20 minutes before cooking, but they can be applied up to 24 hours ahead (usually for meat or poultry) to allow the flavors of the rub to penetrate the food.  If you apply the rub more than 15-20 minutes ahead, leave the salt out of your rub and salt the food just before cooking.  (Salting too far ahead draws out the juices from meat and poultry and makes the surface soggy.)  One other caveat: use only a small amount of sugar in your rub if you’re grilling over direct heat, since too much sugar will cause the rub to burn.  Rubs with a higher proportion of sugar are best for “low and slow” grilling with indirect heat.

Making up your own rubs is easy and much more economical than buying commercially prepared ones.  You can play with flavors and ingredients to get just the rub you like.  If you want, take the extra time to toast and grind whole spices yourself for optimal flavor, but you can still get excellent results from pre-ground spices, as long as they’re less than a year old.  Most homemade rubs will keep for several months in an airtight container away from light and heat, so you can make a large batch to use for several meals from your grill.  You can also use rubs to add flavor to roasts, braises, and stir-fries, rice and other whole grains, soups, stews, salad dressings, and sauces.